Extremely dry, cracked scales

[mekis-bo-bekis]

Hi everyone,

I posted a little while ago about my male skink who spends 90% of his day basking, and I'm hoping I can get some advice. My partner and I went away for a few days, asking our neighbors to mist his substrate and give him clean water while we were gone. However, when we got back, we noticed he was extremely dry and had some under-face scales that looked like they were cracked, and some even had a little blood coming out. His whole belly and tail felt dry as well (he had shed while we were away).

We've been having issues with humidity for the past few weeks (we live in the Northeast) and I've tried the following since then to no avail:

Mist substrate 2x per day (one in the morning, one in the evening)
Mixed in a good amount of cypress mulch to existing ReptiChips (coconut husk) and sphagnum moss substrate mix
Added a shallow tupperware dish with water on the hot side to increase evaporation
Taped tinfoil to half of the top of the screen top to keep humidity in
Keep a humidifier going 24/7 on high right next to the cage

Since noticing these dry scales, I've also been giving him daily 10 min soaks in the sink and rubbing Neosporin on the aggravated scales.

Some more details about his cage: we have a 50w heat bulb and 80w Arcadia Deep Heat Ceramic Heat Projector, along with a UVB light. His cage is a 4x2x2 Zen Habitats cage with a screen top (not ideal but we were nervous about mounting heat bulbs inside). He has 2 humid hides, one on the hot side and one on the cool side, as well as a big water dish in the middle of the cage and a smaller, shallower tupperware container with water on the hot side. Unfortunately the only spot for his huge cage is next to a heater, which is not ideal. Humidity readings on his hygrometers read 42-33 on the cool side and 35-25 on the hot side, which we want to increase. Most of the day he sits on an elevated rock under the heat and lights, ignoring his substrate and hides until it's time for bed.

Aside from the horrid Northeast humidity, cage screen top, and the cage being next to a heater, what can I do next to increase humidity? Is having 2 heat lights on too drying? I feel terrible for the little guy, as I'm sure he's uncomfortable. If his cracked, dry scales don't seem to improve, we'll of course be taking him to the vet. Thanks for your help.

[splashy07]

I am assuming you have an Indonesian skink. Yes, the ceramic heater is drying up the air rapidly. I would use just one bulb, if necessary a higher wattage and do away with the ceramic.

[mekis-bo-bekis]

I actually have a Northern, which is why I assumed winter wouldn't be as much of an issue for the humidity (I was wrong...). I'd rather not get rid of the ceramic bulb if possible, as my bluey seems to love it and come out more since we installed it. Would it work if I install the ceramic bulb to hang from the top of the cage (the lamp has a shield to prevent contact) and nix the second heat bulb? Otherwise I won't get the right temps.

[splashy07]

I have northerns too, reside in the northeast and do not have problems with humidity. I do use PVC enclosures that keep humidity well though. I would suggest using only one heat element, if you install it inside the cage I'd recommend a bulb cage if it is in reach of the animal. Your cage seems to be unnecessarily high, which could be a problem creating a sufficient basking area. The screen top is just letting heat out, and can be partly covered with foil or anything to keep heat in and reduce the need for two bulbs. Northerns usually do not have such issues, possibly a vet check is in order.

[mekis-bo-bekis]

Thanks, I'll try to install the ceramic heater (with bulb cage) in the enclosure and see if that helps with creating the right basking area temps. It's a wood cage with acrylic sliding doors. I've covered half of the top of the screen with tinfoil, but it doesn't seem to be doing much so far. And I agree, a vet check is a good idea.

[mb606587]

Agree with splashy. Those ceramic heat emitters are notorious for drying up enclosures. I use them only in especially large enclosures for my arboreal skinks. Also being in the Northeast and keeping only Indonesian Blue Tongue Skinks, I use a single 75w bulb for all them.

[mb606587]

Also rather than using tin foil, you could create a sturdier cover from plywood to be placed overtop the screen with a small section cut for the light.

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[mekis-bo-bekis]

Thanks, the plywood is a good idea. Now I'm thinking I might just go bioactive and naturally increase the humidity with plants and soil from The Bio Dude. In the meantime, introducing a small mister has helped greatly and the scales are feeling smooth again.

[Arish12]

The surface exhibits extremely dry, cracked scales, indicating significant dehydration or prolonged exposure to harsh environmental conditions. The cracks appear deep and irregular, suggesting a loss of elasticity and possible underlying damage. This condition may cause discomfort or increased vulnerability to infection if left untreated. It is essential to rehydrate the area using appropriate moisturizing agents and protect it from further exposure to prevent worsening or permanent damage. Regular monitoring is recommended. nulls brawl